Shola Branson’s jewellery in SMO gold combines a range of eclectic influences

Jeweller Shola Branson crafted his new collection entirely in fully traceable 18-carat Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold. Branson has chosen brushed gold from the Sabodala mine in Senegal for the Fragments collection, which draws from both antique and modern inspirations. Stones, including Colombian emeralds, white and brown diamonds, tourmalines, and sapphires, are set on blackened gold and rendered in a distinctive cartouche shape.

To set the stones in as little metal as possible, Branson assembles a precious jigsaw puzzle, flooding the recesses with stones of different sizes and hues. ‘They are somewhat inspired by Georgian diamond jewellery,’ says Branson. ‘They often set diamonds in oxidised silver, creating this rich contrast that enhances the brilliance of diamonds, particularly in candlelight. I think this setting technique, paired with the bold brushed forms gives it a very different, more contemporary feel.